MainsSeared Duck Breast with Cherry Sauce
The fat comes off in a cold pan over a low heat, slowly, until the skin is glass-thin and crisp. Rush this and you get chewy skin over grey meat.
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MainsThe fat comes off in a cold pan over a low heat, slowly, until the skin is glass-thin and crisp. Rush this and you get chewy skin over grey meat.
MainsSimmered first, chilled, then sliced thin and fried until the edges curl and cup. The second cooking is where it earns its name and all of its texture.
DessertsAn egg-yolk custard churned to something dense and slow-melting. Shop-bought ice cream is mostly whipped-in air; this is the opposite, and you can taste every bit of the difference.
SaladsEverything chopped to the same size and laid out in stripes rather than tossed. The arrangement is the recipe — you dress and mix it at the table.
SaladsThree ingredients and nowhere to hide. Everything depends on the tomatoes being ripe and the mozzarella being fresh, at room temperature.
SaladsNo lettuce — a real horiatiki never has any. Chunky tomato, cucumber and pepper under a whole slab of feta, with nothing but oil and oregano.
SaladsAnchovy mashed to a paste, egg yolk whisked to an emulsion, and croutons fried in the garlic oil. No bottled dressing comes close.
SnacksScore the sausages, steam the buns, and make a quick pickled onion. Three small steps that take a hot dog from stadium food to something you would serve on purpose.
PizzaNo tomato at all. Ricotta, garlic oil and mozzarella, finished with lemon zest and rocket so it never tastes as heavy as it sounds.
PizzaA larger, thinner, foldable slice with a cooked sauce and low-moisture mozzarella. Use cup-and-char pepperoni and it curls into little pools of paprika oil.
PizzaA 24-hour cold-fermented dough, uncooked tomato sauce, and the hottest oven you own. Three toppings, and every one of them has to be good.
BreakfastSoft-scrambled eggs pulled off the heat while still glossy, folded into warm corn tortillas with melted cheese and a sharp salsa to cut through it.