Blueberry Muffins

1. 1Heat the oven to 200°C fan and line a 12-hole tin. Toss the blueberries with a tablespoon of the measured flour — the coating gives them something to grip and stops them all sinking.
2. 2Whisk the remaining flour, sugar, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt together in a large bowl.
3. 3In a jug, whisk the eggs, buttermilk, oil, vanilla and lemon zest until smooth.
4. 4Pour the wet into the dry and fold with a spatula no more than about twelve strokes. Stop while there are still streaks of dry flour and the batter looks lumpy and wrong. Every extra stir develops gluten and costs you height and tenderness.
5. 5Fold the floured blueberries through with two or three more strokes.
6. 6Divide between the cases — fill them right to the top, not two-thirds, or you will get buns rather than muffins. Scatter the demerara over.
7. 7Bake at 200°C for 8 minutes, then without opening the door drop the temperature to 175°C fan and bake for another 12–14 minutes. That initial blast is what forces the fast rise and the domed top; the lower finish cooks the middle without burning the edges.
8. 8Cool in the tin for 5 minutes, then move to a rack. A skewer should come out clean of batter, though blueberry juice on it is fine.

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