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Cook’s notes
The dough can be piped on to the tray up to 2 hours ahead and kept covered in the fridge. Let it sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before frying so the centres cook evenly.
Keep the oil between 170°C and 180°C: cooler oil makes greasy churros, while hotter oil darkens the outside before the dough is cooked. Never fill the pan more than halfway, and lower the churros in carefully to avoid splashes.
The jam keeps in the fridge for up to 5 days. Churros are best fresh, but can be reheated in a 200°C oven for 5 minutes; avoid the microwave, which makes them chewy.
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Dense, tall and barely sweet, baked in a water bath and then cooled with the patience of a saint. Every crack in a cheesecake is a cooling mistake, not a baking one.
Two kinds of apple, cooked down before they go anywhere near the pastry. That precooking is the whole answer to the hollow dome every apple pie threatens to become.
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