Pork simmered in its own fat until the liquid goes and the frying begins. The whole trick is knowing not to stop at the tender stage — the crisp edges come after.
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Cook’s notes
Shoulder only, and do not trim the fat. Loin will be dry and stringy no matter what you do to it — the fat is the cooking medium for the second half of this recipe.
The pork can be simmered a day ahead and left in its fat in the fridge. Do the frying stage just before eating, or it softens again.
For a sharper contrast, quick-pickle the white onion in lime juice with a pinch of salt for 20 minutes while the pork finishes.
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Eight minutes in the pan, and most of the work is standing the chops on their fat edge first. Render that strip properly and the whole dish tastes better.
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