Philly Cheesesteak

1. 1Freeze the ribeye for 45–60 minutes, until firm at the edges but not solid through. You cannot shave beef thinly at room temperature, and thickness is the difference between a cheesesteak and a steak sandwich.
2. 2Slice it as thinly as you possibly can against the grain — aim for slices you could almost read through. A very sharp knife and short strokes.
3. 3Cook the onions in the butter over a medium heat for 15 minutes until soft and sweet with some colour. Push them to one side of the pan or lift them out.
4. 4Get a large flat pan or griddle as hot as it will go with the oil. Spread the beef out in a single layer — work in two batches if you need to.
5. 5Cook for about 60 seconds, then start chopping it with the edge of two spatulas as it cooks, turning and chopping for another minute. It should go from red to brown fast and finish in ragged short pieces, not slices.
6. 6Season, fold the onions back through, and gather the mixture into four rough piles the length of your rolls.
7. 7Lay two slices of provolone over each pile and let them melt into the meat for 30 seconds. Melting the cheese on the griddle rather than in the bread is what binds the filling together.
8. 8Split the rolls most of the way through, leaving a hinge, and use a spatula to scoop each pile straight into a roll in one motion. Eat immediately.

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